a bagmaking essential
Rivets are used to attach (or ‘staple’) layers of fabric or leather together without needing a needle and thread. They’re especially helpful in areas where the combined layers are too thick for a sewing machine or are difficult to reach.
Rivets can also be used as reinforcement for a point that is subject to a lot of tension, like the outer top corners of a pocket. They’re also great as a decorative element.
In contrast with standard (single cap) rivets, double cap rivets are nicely finished at both ends, so they can be shown off on either side!
There are two caps in a double cap rivet. One cap is attached to the post that goes through a small hole punched through the combined layers of your item. The other cap goes on the other side of your item and covers the post that is sticking through. The second cap just very barely clicks onto the post, but you need to finish installing it with a table press or a rivet tool kit and a mallet.
They are also referred to as: studs
Double cap rivets are available in varying metal finishes, diameters, and post lengths. The diameter refers to the cap of the rivet, which is the part that is visible in a finished bag. The post length is the depth of the rivet, meaning how thick the joined layers can be to work with that rivet.
The rivet post needs to be the same depth as the combined layers you are working with, ideally no more than 1/8″ or 3mm longer. If it’s much longer, the rivet cap will end up dented after installation. If it’s too short, the rivet won’t be secure and will fall out.
Common double cap rivet sizes are: 7 or 9mm diameter and 6, 8, 10, or 12mm post length.
It’s always a good idea to have the same diameter cap with varying post lengths. You might have one area of your bag or strap that is thinner and needs a shorter post length, and one area that is thicker and needs a longer post length. Having the same diameter for varying thicknesses means that the visible rivets will all be the same size on the finished bag or strap.
Side note: Single cap rivets can be useful if only one cap will be visible on the finished bag. The other end of the rivet will be hidden on the underside of the inner layers that make up the bag or strap.
FAQ
Answer: You should punch a hole that is sized so that the rivet post can just fit through. The smaller the better! You absolutely want the hole to be at most a quarter the diameter of the rivet cap.
Answer: Yes and no. It’s possible to very carefully remove an installed rivet using nippers to bend and/or cut the cap off, but you won’t be able to use that rivet again. You will need to use a fresh rivet.
You also need to get the hole exactly right! There are no second chances with hole size or placement.
Answer: Yes! To punch the hole, you can either use a handheld belt hole puncher or a table press fitted with a hole puncher die. Or, if you have a manual rivet setter kit, you can use the hole punch it came with.
To install the rivet, you’ll need either:
- A table press fitted with a rivet die set (top and bottom) that matches the diameter of your rivet. The size of the die is important! If it’s too small, it can actually cut through your rivet cap. You have a little more leeway if the die is slightly larger than the rivet cap. Do a test fit by placing the rivet cap into the die indentation. It should be a perfect fit. It’s common to have several die sizes for your table press.
- A manual rivet setter kit and a mallet. This includes a metal setter bar with an indentation at one end for the rivet cap and a metal base (anvil) with an indentation for the other rivet cap. You use a mallet to tap and secure the rivet into place. Just as with the table press dies, the rivet setter kit needs to match the rivet cap diameter.
Answer: Oh, there are plenty!
- Don’t punch a hole through stitches.
- For fabric, you might want to use a drop of Fray-Check after punching the hole to keep it from fraying.
- For nylon webbing, use a wood burning tool from a hobby shop to make the hole. That will seal the outside of the hole and prevent fraying.
- Use a rivet placement tool to mark where you want the rivet to be. This kind of tool has evenly spaced intervals and helps you center the rivet.
